Make sure you keep track of the humidity. Mint spreads its leaves horizontally, so it needs a lot of free space. I recommend at least one feet (29 cm) spacing between the plants. How to Treat Itįirstly, don’t plant your mints too close to each other. Both of these things have one thing in common, and that’s a high level of humidity. Overwatering and dense planting bolster white rust expansion. You can notice these bumpy, white spots in the early development of the disease. These spots grow in the subcuticular layer, meaning the fungi are hiding beneath the surface. As the name suggests, white rust has similar properties and symptoms to ordinary rust, except for the white spots. Rust is another fungal disease that’s common when cultivating mint. Here are some copper-based fungicides that are safe to use: Name of The Fungicide Important note: copper is toxic to fishes, so don’t use it near aquariums. Organic copper is used the same way as sulfur, usually applied with a pressure sprayer. It’s most effective when the infection first shows. They can be used preventively and curatively for powdery mildew.Įcological treatments include using organic copper, and even milk! You can mix organic or whole milk mixed with water in a 1:1 ratio. You can dust it over your mint in the early stages of disease development. The disease should be gone within 6 treatments. To apply it, you need to mix it with water according to the instructions on the package and spray it with a pressure sprayer. Wettable sulfur is also used as a fungicide. Powdery mildew spores like average temperatures, between 70 and 80☏ (21 to 26° C).Ĭonventional treatments include dusting with wettable sulfur or using copper-based fungicides. These conditions are easily met in the spring and fall when the difference between the day and night temperature is considerable. Low humidity promotes the quicker dispersal of these spores. Spores are formed in the presence of high humidity. Wooly aphids, which we’ll discuss more later, can sometimes be vectors or transmitters of this disease. If it’s left unchecked, it can cover up the entire plant. However, that doesn’t mean that the stem can’t be affected. Powdery mildew affects lower leaves first and climbs its way up to the top. The severity depends on how long the disease has been left untreated. It can even affect all foliage and cover it entirely in white-to-gray ash. Small chlorotic, yellowish patches turn white after a while on the affected plant’s leaves. The disease manifests on the leaves, and it’s easily recognizable. Unfortunately, it’s frequent in high humidity and warm areas. If you’re a long-time gardener, chances are you’re already familiar with this disease. I will feature two fungal diseases on this list, powdery mildew, sclerotium rot, and white mint rust. The primary purpose of hyphae is to stop all nutrition and water from coming to the plant and greedily transferring them to the fungus. They penetrate the plant with hyphae, which are needle-like fungus organs. The majority of fungi have a similar mechanism. They’re one of the most common causes for white spots, at least in my experience. I’ll start the list with fungal infections on mint. Causes of White Spots on Mint Leaves Fungal Diseases I will discuss the causes for these white spots, who’s at fault for creating them, and how to successfully get rid of them. If your mints are having this problem then you need to find out the causes to ensure correct treatment. Also, abiotic factors like Improper nutrition, hard water, dust on leaves can also be equally responsible for this issue. Biotic agents include fungal diseases, viral diseases, and Pest infestations. White spots on Mint plant leaves can be caused by both biotic and abiotic agents. Who doesn’t love the smell and the looks of a healthy mint? Sometimes that exterior can be ruined by white spots on leaves and stems.
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